We're never going to fill up your email box with nonsense. Just wondered if you've ever run across a system not powering up? Confirm the placement of all wiring, ensure that the WBO2 sensor is positioned properly, etc. Then, when you experience the high idle, note if the IAC number has increased. FYI: Car is a 1970 Mustang 302 Ford Racing roller motor. Fought a high idle issue until I changed your idle speed curve fix along with dropping the IAC hold to 10%. The Sniper EFI system looks at the closed-loop fuel compensation required to reach your target AFR. When you set the Static Timing to 15, what did you read with the timing light? Good afternoon Chris, thanks for taking the time to help all of these folks that didn't purchase from you- myself included!The issue I seem to be having is at idle in both park/neutral and drive. Holley - 543-105 EFI Idle Air Control Motor , Black - amazon.com The learn function will offset the base fuel table until the closed-loop compensation only requires minimal changes. Take a drive and stop somewhere for 30 minutes, CTS is 170 when engine was shutoff. So this is my issue ( I did just email Holly). Since the shield was put on, not a single problem, not one. I installed my Sniper and the engine fired up great. What I can't explain is why your TPS is acting so randomly. If you do find you have RFI issues then I've written an article on solving RFI problems. One of the great features of Holley's Sniper is the ability to set your air/fuel ratio (AFR) where you want it. Eventually the IAC will drop back to zero, I'll readjust it to 850 RPM & 2-9%, and then watch it steadily climb again. Use the idle speed screw to set the idle at a comfortable warm-up speed. Solving Holley Sniper High Idle Issues - EFISystemPro.com However, I did have another fellow who contacted me that claims he went through three units before he could get one that would talk between the ECU and the Monitor. I managed to get the IAC down to around 0% - 8%is this good? When you key on, you will hear three distinct sounds: The ECU initializing the IAC, the fuel pump priming, and the injectors firing their prime shot. It shuts off when coming to a stop sign, at any cruising speed and romdomly at idle in park but never when excelerating. Its on a big block Mopar with stock electronic ignition . Be aware that there is a spring behind there and a diaphragm that you don't want to tear. Sometimes it sounds like it wants to crank at the start but runs out of gas. Featured Products Sniper EFI $7.07 - $2,457.95 470 Products View Parts author Staff Writer 1711 Posts An Article About Video tech Sniper EFI Videos Sniper EFI Tech Sniper EFI sniper Installation I emphasize "and" because the transmission controller manufacturer I used had the TPS ground terminated within the harness to the unit's main ground, which I find to be an unthinkable choice. Well, it turns out that with the current firmware this throws the IAC control into a bit of confusion. *Possible delays due to Covid-19 click for more information. As far as the timing light, I don't know, because I was having problems getting it to work, and that's where I stopped. Now it's at 5% on a big cam 440 Mopar. If you don't have a working coolant temperature sensor then it will never bring the idle speed down. For the first couple of drives it was running well, Sniper EFI was working exactly as advertised. That way you can get into that part of the table that needs tuning, and you can watch your learn numbers grow. It's hard to know what the previous owner did right versus wrong. Initial thought is timing but Im running a cd box and the ecu is not controlling and I did not physically change it during the install. I installed the Sniper on my 1978 Ford F-100 with a small block Will restart but only for a minute or so a couple of times then shuts down fuel delivery and will not restart. I went on the good ole interweb and found your website which was VERY helpful! But I wanted to go ahead and answer this so that it would make sense to someone who might not go that route.I think the first thing I'd do is try another pressure gauge. But he kept having problems so eventually he did a complete check and then he found the problem. In the setup, I set the hot idle for 850. Give that a go and see if you don't make some progress! It could be that the air flow across the secondaries as they are opening is creating that whistle but that isn't commonly the case.Did you check for leaks around the gasket of the air cleaner? Having a TPS that won't go lower than 9% will affect the acceleration enrichment correction, and could create a stumble at the first moment of throttle opening.Yes, the IAC can and will fluctuate depending on changing conditions. And the rather cavalier "Absolutely!" I was 20 minutes into a drive yesterday when all of the sudden the RPM increased not commanded. If it is not a problem with the Sniper EFI System itself then it could be an issue with some sort of harmonic involving the fuel pump. Am I missing something. Robust, feature-rich multi-port EFI systems offer easy plug-and-play late-model V8 engine swaps. other things that might cause the idle to faulter, but this is a good start. is the fuel pressure. Thanks so much for reading! The team at EFI pro are some of the best I have ever dealt with when coming to ordering parts or having the knowledge to answer any question you may have. If the solutions suggested above are not working then you need to review my article on IAC Testing Procedures. Hello, I am having a tps and idle issue. Hopefully replacing the pump again will resolve both issuesWhoa. It's going to be really difficult to nail down the problem with the several simultaneous changes that you've made. Now it registers zero and I have good idle but it will not register until it hits 60 and up. Was perfect idle iac reading 3. And thanks again for taking your time to answer these questions. IAC is good 0-5% most of the time. Since a key cycle resets it to 0 and out to 30 or wherever The jack-rabbit start can usually be minimized by adjusting the throttle linkage. Hello The timing can drift 0-30 degrees just due to the width of the rotor tip. You can drop it down and you will find it will behave more like you expect. There is no real mystery here. Then it started behaving oddly. I installed the Holley Sniper in my Chevelle this winter with a brand new BluePrint 496. (Grease can sometimes do the same thing as a more permanent gasket sealer without making the removal of the air cleaner such a pain.). I also raised idle at Park a bit with the idle screw. Since the load is more of a wave that increases the most initially and then decreases again, the ECU is doing really well to get the idle under control in only two or three over/under shots as you describe.You don't mention if you have your Sniper ECU controlling timing. To figure this out it's going to be important to gather a bit more data. Good luck! That disappears as soon as the throttle is pressed and then you immediately revert to your timing table.You can certainly use the compressor to initate the IAC Kick, but remember that this is just a temporary idle boost to ensure that the engine doesn't die when the AC is first turned on. Or, at least, it should. The Sniper even has a feature that allows it to use the idle timing to control the idle speed. The only way to confirm RFI problems is by doing a data log. )Since this isn't a consistent issue with all Snipers that tells me that different IAC settings tend to make the whistle. Using a Snap-on variable timing light so this is why I say timing is perfect. If you have somehow overlooked this, start here: Holley Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions: Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the idle speed can be set to what was configured in the Wizard. It could be a problem with the power/ground for the Sniper but much more commonly this is a result of too much RFI. If I'm driving along and pull up to a light and leave it in gear it idles just fine but it seems not to be able to compensate if I put it in neutral and then back and drive. When I turn the key on I can hear it prime, but I don't think im getting enough fuel. I'm thinking it could be the fuel pressure--- since I have a new Spectra EFI tank and there's been some reports of the interior coating coming off and gumming up the pump however the sniper display DOES NOT show fuel pressure.the Sniper DOES measure fuel pressure on its own - i've confirmed that with holley techs as they told me to purchase the fuel pressure gauge that can just hook up to the 1 wire gauge harness from the Sniper. IAC looks good once it finally s fires. I have an adapter on the manifold for squarebore to spreadbore and then a phenolic spacer. My problem is low idle. The throttle blade adjustment is at 2-6% at hot idle, and with warm engine 185F. Holley Sniper EFI This may require shortening or lengthening a rod. Since it is unlikely that anything else changed it is most likely the IAC is problematic or the butterflies are not shut all the way. PDF Sensor Diagnostics and Statuses - Holley check out the. All times are GMT-6. They tell you to ask call Holley. Thank you for this guide on setting IAC. Give it a watch: https://youtu.be/7SO7-tZn6iw. So glad this was helpful. Ive had an idle at neutral as high as 2400 rpm. I recently install a sniper efi. That's not the IAC Hold Position, it's a percentage value. EFI System Pro had everything I needed for my EFI upgrade. Thanks for sharing that, Jason--great info! It's a Chevy 350 bored .030" over it has a cam in it what I was told is the cam has the firing order swapped. Don't be surprised if one or the other is slightly open. )Then look a the datalog and find out what TPS ROC and MAP ROC is most likely to cause the problem. All times are GMT-6. The throttle plates are misaligned. :-DStill, I hate to leave someone hanging so I'll try to help. Thank you. Thanks for the info Chris. the gas it catches itself and runs fine at slower speeds. If you drop it too far the engine will stumble or stall when coming off the throttle with the car out of gear, so you'll know when you've gone too far. i'm having is I can't seem to get the truck to run faster than 45 mph at speeds There's a procedure there I can share with you if you'd like.. But, whether your vendor provides you with tech support or sends you to Holley, I'd start by getting them a data log and asking for some insight. The headache is the Acceleration Enrichment. Perfectif you have the original synchronous linkage. Any suggestions? carburetor setup, but it does blow when I can't jump on the highway like I use !I called Holley today, and before I could even described the symptoms the Once it commands that high idle I haven't found anything to return it to normal, other than shutting it down and restarting. And the only way to be positive about that is with a gauge.Unfortunately, the Sniper does not provide an input for an electronic sender so the next best thing is an analog gauge. Your suggestion to remove the PCV valve is just for diagnosis purposes, right? Again, I would lean on that solution to let the vehicle drive/learn before you try to "fix" anything. Remove the tape from the IAC breather hole and restart the engine. If you have a bellcrank in your throttle linkage, ensure that the linkage is not engaging the bellcrank at an angle greater than 45 degrees at either end of the throw. This will tell us if the ECU thinks that it is in control of setting the idle or if it thinks that you are driving the engine speed with the pedal. Hi Chris I didn't get any traction on Holley.com Across the board, all of our customers say how impressed they were that it started and ran right out of the box just by following the simple installation instructions. The IAC is hanging open and not really at 0. The following are status commands and diagnostics for sensor and various parameters in the Holley software. The very first thing I would do is get ground truth on your timing. During after-start idle, the idle will jump up to about 70% if the engine is cold, stay there about 4 seconds and then ramp down to the target idle speed for the current engine temperature. Yes it is controlling the timing and I had issues at first and it controlled the idle just fine. This car has never idled under 900 without stalling with 3 carbs and does the same thing with sniper edit. When I am coming to a stop, the rpms will hang at 1200-1500 rpms. Do you have a PCV on the engine?

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